Gentrification in Medellin - A nuanced situation garnering emotional results
In this op-ed, I hope to show both sides of a debate that is very emotional. I was surprised with how triggered the foreigners were when I discussed it last time. I took a little more care in this to explore both sides.
OP-ED
Steve Hamilton
12/18/20247 min read


Gentrification in Medellín: A Double-Edged Sword
Medellín, Colombia’s second-largest city, has transformed over the past few decades. Once synonymous with violence and instability, it’s now a vibrant hub for digital nomads, expats, and tourists alike. This transformation has brought immense opportunities but has also left locals who once lived in the areas to move away from neighborhoods they once called home - often times for generations, especially in neighborhoods like El Poblado and Laureles. While the recent growth has economic and social benefits, it also creates significant challenges for locals and raises ethical questions for visitors.
The Pros of Becoming a Destination City
Economic Growth and Development
This recent growth has brought new investments into Medellín, boosting local businesses, infrastructure, and real estate. Expats and digital nomads bring foreign currency, which stimulates the economy. Cafés, coworking spaces, and boutique shops have flourished in areas like Provenza and Laureles, creating jobs and improving amenities for residents and visitors alike.
Cultural Exchange
The arrival of expats and digital nomads fosters cultural exchange, enriching Medellín’s cosmopolitan appeal. Events, language exchanges, and international cuisine have broadened the city’s cultural landscape, making it more inclusive and diverse. While this is in a perfect world, and the intentions of those coming here is not always positive, we will focus on the ones that are coming here to change their lives and make a positive impact on the city.
The Cons of Becoming a Destination City
Displacement of Locals
The most glaring downside of the recent growth is the displacement of local residents. In neighborhoods like El Poblado and Laureles, rising rents and property values have priced out many locals. These residents are often forced to move to less accessible or less developed parts of the city, losing their sense of community and access to essential services.
Inequality and Resentment
While gentrification improves living standards for some, it can deepen economic disparities. Local Colombians earning in pesos often struggle to compete with expats earning in dollars or euros, creating a sense of resentment and social tension. The growing wealth gap can also lead to feelings of exclusion among long-time residents. This is part of why when a gringo does something stupid here like John Paulous or Timothy Livingston, the population paints ALL gringos with this brush. The media takes notice and starts to paint all gringos as evil child molesting drug addicts to feed this insatiable lust for the hatred of foreigners. This starts with some Colombians blaming the influx of gringos for the economic woes that Colombia is facing.
Cultural Homogenization
As Medellín becomes more popular with foreigners, some fear it is losing its unique identity. Chain stores, international brands, and businesses catering primarily to expats can overshadow local traditions and small businesses. This cultural dilution can make the city less authentic over time. Do I think this is the case? No, I see US-centric shops like Starbucks, Nike, etc. and there are more Colombians there than foreigners.
Safety Concerns
One major thing that should be common sense, but is ignored by ex-pats, criminals go where the easiest targets are. They go where the money is. Why would they go to Estrato 2 to rob people, when they can catch tourists slipping in vacation mode? Tourists are more compliant, and have more money and valuables? It makes no sense. This is why the popular neighborhoods for partying are places where most crimes against tourists happen. It takes an act of God to get me to go to Parque Lleras, Provenza, La 70, etc. Because I'm coming up on living here for a decade. As I get older, I also understand as I get older that especially in Medellin, nothing that enhances your life happens on the streets after midnight. The crime that happens in these areas affects everyone, and the locals are starting to blame the foreigners for it.
Rental Laws and Availability: Furnished vs. Unfurnished
Understanding Medellín’s rental market is crucial for expats and digital nomads. The differences between furnished and unfurnished rentals are stark, and laws governing them are nuanced. This is something that is often misconstrued about the real estate market here. Yes, AirBnB and furnished rentals are a factor in the rising of unfurnished rental prices, but there are several other factors at play there as well. Locals rarely rent furnished rentals long-term, so the price jump in these rarely affects them directly. Conversely, the unfurnished rental market rarely affects the foreigners, as most can't qualify for a standard rental unless they work directly with the owner of the apartment.
Furnished Rentals
Furnished rentals are typically aimed at short-term tenants, such as tourists or digital nomads. These properties often include utilities and are leased on flexible terms, sometimes as short as one month. However, furnished rentals command significantly higher prices than unfurnished ones, reflecting the convenience and amenities they offer. The average price difference for a furnished rental is between 80%-120% higher monthly. Also, very important to consider that there are very few laws governing rental price hikes. What this means is that your furnished rental is only governed by the market price or perceived value of the apartment. Something to also consider that many Colombian landlords are greedy, and are in the middle of a gold rush in their minds. They would rather have an apartment sit idle for months rather than compromise at all on the price. Before you come for me, this is a world-wide greed, not just a Colombian thing.
Unfurnished Rentals
Unfurnished rentals are more affordable but come with stricter lease agreements, often requiring a minimum commitment of one year. Additionally, unfurnished properties typically lack appliances, requiring tenants to invest in items like refrigerators, stoves, and washing machines. These rentals are geared toward locals or long-term residents, offering a more authentic experience of living in Medellín. This is not a terribly realistic option for most foreigners who don't have the advantage of a fiador (Colombian co-signer). The one thing that is very important to consider here is that these rentals are price controlled. There is an algorithm for how much the rent can go up at the end of each contract term. That has varied from 4-10% increase for the time I've been here.
Key Differences
Price: Furnished rentals are considerably more expensive.
Lease Terms: Furnished rentals offer flexibility; unfurnished leases require long-term commitments.
Target Audience: Furnished rentals cater to foreigners, while unfurnished options are tailored to locals or long-term residents.
Expats must navigate these distinctions carefully to ensure they align with their budget and lifestyle preferences.
Medellín vs. Comparable Cities
To contextualize Medellín’s gentrification, it’s useful to compare it to other cities worldwide that attract digital nomads and expats. There are three that are fairly comparable.
Medellín vs. Chiang Mai, Thailand
Both Medellín and Chiang Mai are popular among digital nomads for their affordability and culture. However, Medellín’s real estate market is more developed, leading to faster gentrification. Chiang Mai’s cost of living remains lower, and local communities have been more resilient in maintaining traditional lifestyles despite the influx of foreigners.
Medellín vs. Lisbon, Portugal
Lisbon has experienced rapid gentrification, with soaring property prices and a growing digital nomad population. Like Medellín, locals in Lisbon face displacement and cultural changes. However, Portugal’s stronger economy and social safety nets offer some relief to displaced residents, a contrast to Medellín’s challenges.
Medellín vs. Bali, Indonesia
Bali and Medellín share a reputation for attracting expats seeking a tropical lifestyle. However, Bali’s gentrification has led to severe environmental concerns, such as overdevelopment and water shortages. Medellín, on the other hand, faces fewer environmental issues but struggles more with socioeconomic inequality.
Ethical Considerations for Expats and Visitors
Expats and digital nomads can adopt practices to minimize their impact on Medellín’s gentrification:
Support Local Businesses: Choose locally owned restaurants, shops, and services to contribute to the local economy.
Learn Spanish: Engaging with the local language and culture fosters integration and mutual respect. This will also save you from being taken advantage of. You'll also have a better time here and make friends much easier if you can actually communicate with the locals.
Be Mindful of Housing Choices: Avoid overpaying for rentals to prevent inflating the housing market further. Do research, and try to live outside the gringo bubble. Not only will you find a more authentic experience, but you'll also find that there is more safety in places like Belen, La Mota and Envigado than there is in Poblado and Laureles.
Volunteer and Give Back: Contribute time or resources to community initiatives supporting local residents. If you are looking to volunteer, email us and I'll put you in touch with Gabriela Eaglesome on how to volunteer. She has overseen some impressive initiatives about giving back to the community. If you are techy, Steve Cha and Empower the Barrios has done amazing work as well.
Perception Vs Reality
There are many reasons people come here to live from bigger economies - these range from cost of living to the nefarious coming here for sex, drugs and partying. The problem is that those of us who come here for upstanding reasons are lumped in with the sexpats and sextourists by many locals. The sexpats and sex/narco tourists, I can't defend. You're on your own, For those that are here for the cost of living, there will be locals that look down on you as well, but there is nothing you can do about that. They'll say your presence here is ruining the housing market for and they will even have posters with cute slogans like "Gringo go home" which if you know the history of the slur gringo, that is just an ignorant thing to say, as all racism is.
I will push back a bit on racist Colombians who have hate for all that choose to live here. If you want to live in another country, and still have hate for those that do so in your country, then you are just as ignorant as the racists you hate so much. There are many who are here to live a better life, and they have chosen Medellin to do so. With that said, the moron sex and narco tourists, they are the ones who deserve your ire. As for those that come here to live, be a good example for your country. There is stereotypical behavior for gringos here and if people see you doing it, you are going to further the belief that gringo = bad. There are enough idiots doing idiot things here, we have enough people visiting here posting moronic things like "I'm the king of Medellin" and "Where the party at?". Don't be those assholes.
Conclusion
Gentrification in Medellín is a complex issue with no easy answers. While it has brought undeniable benefits, such as economic growth and improved infrastructure, it also poses challenges, particularly for the city’s most vulnerable residents. By understanding these dynamics and making thoughtful choices, expats and digital nomads can enjoy Medellín’s many charms while minimizing their impact on its local communities. If you plan on coming here, try giving back to this culture, which has been welcoming to you.
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